Gourmet Guruvayur!
Guruvayur, is my home town and my ancestral home is here, a place where I spent my summer vacations with my grandmother, Amumma as I called her. You know her from one of my previous writings and she would churn out delicious dishes with a flair but with ease. My mother, Amma, has got her culinary skills from Amumma and cooks with a lot of patience and perfection. This blog is in honour of my Amumma and Amma for their passion in life, their energy, their perfection.
We moved to Delhi in 1970 and amma had to create authentic Malayalee cuisine at home because my father, Achan, could not and would not have anything less! Not only did she recreate the entire array of dishes for us but she also made lavish dinners for Chandramama, Indirammai, Nirmaledati and Narayanettan and all my cousins. The meal would end with her signature sweet dish.
Achan’s home town is near Guruvayur in a small village called Anakkara and in his family home, Anakkara Vadakkath also, the tradition of authentic malabar food a must. Achan did not like it when ingredients were substituted or a short cut taken and if Amma ever did try it, a disagreement would surely ensue and I have been witness to quite a few of those.
Achan also loved to make a simple pickle with Lemon, shallots, green chillies, ginger and garlic, all cut and put in a bottle of brine. It is a heavenly combination with either Sambar and rice or with Curd and rice (“thaiyr-shadam”).
With this blog I am attempting to keep alive some of the dishes that I know of and that Amma still remembers and to keep alive some of the simple yet delicious curries (“kuttaan”), vegetable (“thoran” or mezhukkuvaratti”) as also some snacks.
Did you know : In Guruvayur, in the homes of local residents, “paal-payasam” (“kheer”, “payas”) is never made at home because they will only have what is first given to Lord Krishna in the temple and they will only take it as a “prasadam” (received from God) from the temple.
The dish I am writing about today is “Olan“, a stew that is simple and is considered to be a “kuttan” primarily for the children. Rightly so because we realized that my daughter, Veda, took to this dish like water when she was a child.
Ingredients –
- 1 cup of vegetables such as pumpkin, ash gourd- thinly sliced in 1 inch in length and breadth (it is important to mention that the manner in vegetables are cut is very important to the look and feel of each dish)
- 1 sprig of Curry leaves or “Karuveppila”
- 1 cup of Shredded coconut
- A handful of Cow Peas – for a slightly varied version of the original
- 1 tea spoon of coconut oil
Method – the original version
- Cook the vegetables with curry leaves and salt in water till they are done (it should not be over cooked and the thinly sliced vegetables should be seen as they are)
- Add warm water to shredded coconut and leave it for 5 minutes. Squeeze the milk from the shredded coconut and take the coconut milk that is squeezed in the first attempt (“onnam paalu”)
- Add this “onnam paalu” to the cooked vegetables and cook for 2 -3 minutes and switch off the burner.
- Drizzle a tea spoon of coconut oil
This served with white or red rice and tastes heavenly, specially on a hot afternoon. I fact this is one dish which I prefer to have without the accompanying “pappadam”, because it takes away the taste of the vegetables
Method – my Amma’s version with some green chillies and cow peas
- Cook the vegetables with curry leaves, split green chillies (2) and salt in water till they are done (it should not be over cooked and the thinly sliced vegetables should be seen as they are)
- Cook a handful of Cow Peas separately, till it is well done
- Mix the vegetables and the Cow Peas and simmer for a minute
- Add warm water to shredded coconut and leave it for 5 minutes. Squeeze the milk from the shredded coconut and take the coconut milk that is squeezed in the first attempt (“onnam paalu”)
- Add this “onnam paalu” to the cooked vegetables and cook for 2 -3 minutes and switch off the burner.
- Drizzle a tea spoon of coconut oil
What delights the children certainly delights an adult! Enjoy!
